About Alghero
Alghero appeals to those looking for something a little bit different in their holiday destination. After all, this is an Italian town where the road signs are in Catalan and where the locals craft coral into jewellery despite the fact that none exists in the Sardinian sea.
Despite being a bit eccentric, Alghero's attractions are quite mainstream. There are superb beaches here, each lapped by azure sea water rated as some of the cleanest in the world. Another drawcard is the inimitable island cuisine; dishes such as Catalan lobster and the spicy pecorino cheeses garner rave reviews from the increasing number of visitors.
Charming though it is, Alghero works equally well as either a holiday base or a destination in itself. The city is ideal for easy access to the numerous attractions of Northern Sardinia, and mainland Italy is only a short flight away.
The cycle of life in Sardinia is heavily dependent on the seasons. This phenomenon is particularly apparent in Alghero and north along the Costa Smeralda. During the summer months (Apr-Sep) Alghero and its environs are hives of activity, where people socialise into the early hours and the beaches are filled with holidaymakers and loafing locals.
In winter you will need to offset cheap hotels and flights against the knowledge that most restaurants and bars remain closed for months at a time. All the same, if you want to get away from the tourist hordes, come to Alghero over December.
If you have the time, take a drive into the hilly interior and experience rugged farming country. It is a harsh landscape, but the good soil and wonderful clean air ensure a ready supply of excellent quality fresh produce and a thriving wine industry - making for a healthy lifestyle that may explain why Sardinia statistically has a higher proportion of centenarians than anywhere else in the world.
Alghero See and Do
Piazza Sulis
Sulis Square is the heart of Alghero life. Intervening between it and the sea is the 16th-century Tower of the Royal Spur, a proud vestige of the city's Spanish heritage. Sulis is fronted by numerous seafood restaurants and gelateria, with al fresco dining popular late into the summer evenings.
The old town
Alghero's old town makes for a rewarding stroll, particularly in the heat of the day when the shaded corridors and narrow alleys are pleasantly cool. Labyrinthine in parts, the old town roads intermittently break open onto piazzas where some of the city's best - and most understated - restaurants and trattoria can be found. Architectural highlights include the 16th century Duomo and the Maddalena Tower, which faces into an attractive harbour.
Capo Caccia
The mandatory excursion from Alghero, the Capo Caccia peninsula affords magnificent views over the ocean, which is coloured a striking, crisp turquoise. On the western side of the promontory 656 steps lead down to Neptune's Grotto, a picturesque cave at sea level. The rest of the Caccia is home to a variety of wildlife including peregrine falcons and the endangered Griffon vulture. Get here by car or bicycle from Alghero; 15km north.
Yacht trip
The sea is Alghero's biggest attraction and there is no better way of enjoying the crystal clear waters than on board a traditional sailing vessel such as the Andreas Jensen. This 80 foot wooden ketch leaves from the old town harbour daily for sightseeing tours of the coastal waters around Capo Caccia. On-board passengers are welcome to try their hand at hoisting the sails, splicing the mainbrace and all manner of other nautical work, or alternatively you can simply laze on deck enjoying the scenery and excellent fresh food served on board. The boat moors up at several sheltered bays where it's possible to swim, and with a bit of luck dolphins and whales can frequently be seen sporting within easy viewing distance of the boat. Departs from the harbour at 10h00-18h00 every day, costing EUR65 per person, which includes lunch and drinks on board. Tel: +39 3389-708-139 (boat mobile).
Beaches
Alghero's beaches are excellent and the perfect-blue sea is Europe's cleanest ocean water. Further north, around the Costa Smeralda, you can find coves and bays that are Caribbean in character - although the crowds are more typical of southern Spain over a bank holiday weekend. With calm, warm waters and ample pine-tree shading Maria Pia, 2km north-west of Alghero, is the perfect family beach (and consequently anathema to the hip and trendy who congregate elsewhere). Le Bombarde beach (3km north) is more popular with a younger crowd who hang out at the beach bar. The water is typically calm yet bracingly cold.
Costa Smeralda
Some distance north-east of Alghero lies the coastal splendour of the Costa Smeralda, Sardinia's answer to the Côte d'Azur. With gorgeous beaches offset by rugged coastline and wind-hewn cliffs, and yachts anchored off every bay, this is a millionaire's playground that nevertheless has plenty of room for the ordinary holidaymaker. The most striking feature of this area is the extraordinary, radiant blueness of the water. Although Olbia (north-east Sardinia) is the main transport hub, the harbour at Porto Rotondo is where all the action happens. Alghero is about 125km away.